Field Notes

Extending your trip: Quito, Papallacta, and the volcanoes

The days inside the islands are set for you. The days on either end are not. This is the part of your trip you actually get to shape, and it’s where a Galápagos charter quietly turns into a full Ecuador one.

By Carly Newman, co-founder of Nautica Blu · 7 minute read

Extending a Galápagos trip in mainland Ecuador, Cotopaxi volcano above the páramo.

Here’s something most people don’t realize until they start planning: you can’t fly straight to the Galápagos. Every flight to the islands leaves from mainland Ecuador, from Quito or Guayaquil, in the morning. So no matter how you arrange it, you’re spending at least one night on the mainland before you ever set foot on a boat. Most people treat that night as a chore, a hotel near the airport and an early alarm. I think that’s a small waste, because the mainland is worth a few days of its own.

And here’s the part that matters more. Once you’re on the boat, the route is fixed. The Galápagos National Park sets every itinerary and date, and no operator can change them. So the islands, wonderful as they are, aren’t the part of the trip you design. The mainland is. The days you add in Quito, up at the hot springs in Papallacta, or out under the volcanoes are the part that’s genuinely yours to shape, and they’re what turn a week on a yacht into a real Ecuador trip.

The part of the trip that’s actually yours to shape

I say this on nearly every planning call, because it flips the whole thing around. People come in assuming the Galápagos is the flexible part and the mainland is just transit. It’s the other way around. Inside the islands you choose your vessel, your length, and your route from what the Park allows, and then the schedule runs like clockwork. On the mainland, you choose everything: how many days, in which direction, and how much walking versus how much sitting in a hot spring doing nothing at all.

So when a family asks me how to make the trip theirs, this is where I point them. You don’t need all three of what follows. Some people add a single day in Quito at each end and call it perfect. Others build a full week around the volcanoes. Both are right. Here’s what each one actually gives you.

Quito, a soft place to land

Almost everyone starts in Quito, because that’s where the long flights land, and it’s a lovely place to shake off the travel. It sits at about 9,350 feet in a valley in the Andes, which sounds high, but remember Galápagos is at sea level, so this isn’t about adjusting your body for the islands. It’s about giving yourself a day to catch up with the clock, in a beautiful place to do it.

The old town is the reason to stay. It’s one of the largest and best preserved colonial centers in the Americas, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you can spend a whole morning in it without once checking your phone: gilded churches, cobbled streets, plazas full of Sunday life, and a hill called El Panecillo with a winged statue and a view over the entire city. If you want to go higher, a cable car climbs the flank of Pichincha, the volcano the city is built against, to about 13,000 feet and a view that runs for miles. A day here at each end of your trip is my most common recommendation, and the one almost nobody regrets.

Papallacta, the hot springs in the mountains

If Quito is where you land, Papallacta is where you exhale. It’s a small thermal springs village about a 2 hour drive east of Quito, up over a high pass at around 10,800 feet and down toward the edge of the cloud forest, where the Andes start falling away toward the Amazon. The springs are fed by the volcanoes around them, and the pools sit steaming in the cold mountain air with the páramo rising straight up behind you.

I send people here for one of two reasons. Either they want to soften the arrival after a long flight, in which case an afternoon in the pools does more than a full night’s sleep. Or they want to close the trip somewhere quiet, in which case a night at the springs after a week at sea is close to perfect. Hummingbirds, warm water, thin clean air, and nothing you have to do. It’s the most relaxed corner of the whole trip, and for a lot of families it ends up being the part they talk about most.

The volcanoes, if you want the adventure

Ecuador runs down a corridor the old naturalists called the Avenue of the Volcanoes, and the most famous of them, Cotopaxi, is close enough to Quito to reach in a day. It’s one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, close to 19,000 feet, and its snow-capped cone is so symmetrical it looks drawn on. You don’t climb it. You drive into Cotopaxi National Park, walk the high grassland páramo, watch for wild horses, and if the sky is clear, stand under that cone on a still morning while it decides whether to show itself.

This is the add-on for the family that wants a second kind of adventure to go with the water. Where the Galápagos gives you sea lions and snorkeling at sea level, the volcanoes give you thin air, wide open highland, and a landscape that feels like the top of the world. It pairs beautifully with a night at Papallacta on the way back, and the two of them together make a proper Andean bookend to your time at sea.

"Inside the islands, the schedule runs like clockwork. The mainland is the part of the trip that's genuinely yours to shape."

The mainland, at a glance

If you’d rather just see the options laid out, here’s how I usually frame the add-ons when a family is deciding.

  • A soft landing — A day or two in Quito at the start. Adjust to the clock, wander the old town, and step onto your boat rested instead of jet-lagged.
  • A quiet finish — A night at the Papallacta hot springs at the end. Trade the boat for warm water and thin mountain air before the flight home.
  • The full Andes — Quito, Papallacta, and a day in Cotopaxi National Park. A second landscape to go with the sea, for families who want the adventure to keep going.
  • A single extra day — Just one day in Quito on each end. The most common choice, and often all you need.
  • Guayaquil instead — Arriving through Guayaquil? The coast has its own character, and we build your mainland days around whichever gateway your flights use.
  • Something else entirely — The Otavalo craft market, the cloud forest, the line of the equator itself. Tell us what you’re drawn to and we’ll fit it in.

Not sure how many days to add, or where? Tell us roughly when you’re coming and what your family likes, slow mornings or big landscapes, and we’ll sketch a mainland plan around your charter and confirm what fits.

How we handle the mainland

Here’s the part that makes all of this easy, and it’s the reason the mainland is worth saying yes to. You don’t arrange any of it yourself. Your guide meets you the moment you land in Ecuador, in Quito or Guayaquil, whichever your flights use, and you’re looked after from there: the hotels, the drive up to Papallacta, the day in the park, the early transfer to your Galápagos flight, all of it handled and all of it planned around your group.

That’s true for one extra day and it’s true for a full Andean week. The mainland isn’t a separate trip you have to bolt on and manage. It’s the same trip, the same people looking after you, stretched a little wider at both ends.

The easy first step

You don’t need to decide any of this now. When we plan your charter, the mainland days are simply part of the conversation. I’ll ask roughly when you’re coming, how much time you have, and whether your family leans toward slow and comfortable or out and adventuring, and I’ll put a shape to it from there. Add nothing and just fly in the night before, or build a full loop through the Andes. Both are trips I book all the time.

And the same reassurance that covers your charter covers your mainland days. Nautica Blu is a US registered company, you pay in US dollars to a US business, and I handle the whole thing personally, from your first night in Quito to the morning you fly home.

Tell me when you’re thinking of coming and how long you can stay, and I’ll tell you what’s worth adding. That’s the whole first step.

Carly Newman, co-founder of Nautica Blu

About the author

Carly Newman

Carly is co-founder of Nautica Blu and handles every charter personally, from the first email to the morning guests fly home. She lives in the Galápagos with her husband Paco and their two daughters.

Read more about Nautica Blu →

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Nautica Blu is a US registered LLC arranging private Galápagos charters across a hand-picked fleet of premium yachts. Every charter includes a second senior naturalist, a dedicated photographer, and end-to-end personal handling.

Carly Newman writes about planning Galápagos travel at carlynewmangalapagos.com